Walajah

I've mentioned briefly what I will be doing at  HLT.  On Wednesday, we were able to do some field work for the research we will be doing.  The report we are hoping to compile is going to be focused on East Jerusalem ID holders.  I do not claim to be an expert on any of the affairs (yet...hehe), so bear with me as I try to explain a bit.  

If you are not an Israeli citizen (so all those who live in East Jerusalem, Gaza, and West Bank), you hold an ID

card.  Those in the West Bank (and I think Gaza) hold a green ID.  This ID has its limitations.  All Palestinians who live in East Jerusalem hold a blue ID card.  The East Jerusalemites are in a weird position.  In 1949, after the '48 War, Jordan and Israel got together and drew the "Green Line" down the middle of Jerusalem.  I'm still not completely sure why it was not just made part of the West Bank (still learning, forgive me), but it's not.  The E.J. card holders get a few more rights than those in the West Bank--Healthcare benefits along with the amount and availability of jobs.  BUT, the cost of living in East Jerusalem is sky-rocketing.  Israelis are edging in, and there's more pressure to move to the West Bank.  Many E. Jerusalemites live in the Bethlehem area because of this, but still commute to their jobs in East Jerusalem so they can make a living.  

There's a lot of different things going on that are all factors, such as the construction of the separation wall, pressure from Israeli settlements, and marriage rights (seems random, but will explain more about later).  

On Wednesday, we went into Alwalajah.  This is a neighborhood right on the border.  There has been a large amount of home demolitions (as well as rebuildings).  We went to go see some homes that are up to be demolished or have been, along with some that HLT and other organizations have helped rebuild.  The landscape is beautiful, mountainous with the welcoming scent of the trees and nature.  The men who took us were telling us how everyone used to come out during the spring to picnic, but now it's too treacherous.  We saw where some of the wall is being constructed.  I can not explain the frustration this wall gives me, a foreigner.  

I'm gonna take a quick commercial break to ask you something.  How much do you really want to know?  Are you willing to truly listen--to not write me off because I'm young, because I'm just "going through a phase"?  You may call me biased (does that make my interpretation invalid?), but I will not just sit here and write simple tidbits about my visit to the holy sites and how wonderful the food is.  Feel free to comment, if you have an answer.  I am tired of walking on eggshells so as not to offend anyone.  To offend is not our aim; we wish only to enlighten and inspire. Makenzie feels the same.  

Back to Alwalajah.  We visited a semi-built home.  We were just a few meters away from the wall.  One of the HLT staff called his friend who was working on the other side of the wall, in the settlement.  "They are allowed to build over there, but not over here."  These families have been on this land for centuries, if not longer.  The whole city of Walajah was split up because of the border issue, and the people were forced to move to a section half of what it used to be.  The Israelis give a family a citation saying they have to demolish their home with a certain time period.  They are fined and then they must rent the bulldozer and workers themselves to demolish the home they built for their family--this was the case with one family we met.  

When they come in with the bulldozers, many of the citizens there practice nonviolent resistance by standing in front of the bulldozers in protest.  Some friends from HLT join them.  

Some of the churches/monasteries in that area made bargains with the Israeli government so as not to lose land, and in turn, hurt the Palestinians living around them because of the way the construction of the wall works.  My friend told me of a story of a monastery that is right next to wall.  It houses French nuns in their 60s and 70s.  The Israelis came to them and said either you use your land or we build the wall around you (which would separate them from the Palestinian community they had invested much of their lives in).  The women said to take the land!  They were staying there.  The community was extremely grateful for their presence there.  Pretty awesome women of God.

Without showing photos or looking through notes on the past couple of days, that's all I can share with you at the moment.  

Today marks our one week anniversary of being here!  Alla ysallimkum (May God keep you safe and sound).  Much love, peace, and happiness!  (Or as Ronald would say, Peace Love Dove Donny Osmond)


-H

Jerusalem

I had a similar reaction to that of the Church of the Nativity. I mean, don't get me wrong, it is an awesome city rich with culture and history and religious heritage and I loved the experience and am excited to visit again and not be so rushed. But for me, it was spiritually lacking. And even beyond that it oozes of divisiveness. There's the four distinct quarters, Muslim, Christian, Armenian, Jewish, then there is the split between East and West Jerusalem and then to top it off, each Christian sect claims their own holy sites. Hannah told you we visited the Garden of Gethsemene, well, we only visited the site the Catholics say was where Jesus prayed those tears before he was to be crucified. The Greek Orthodox  and Russian Orthodox also have laid claim to the spots they think are the Garden. And that's how it is with all the hot spots...where Jesus was crucified, his tomb, where he ascended, where someone wiped his face, touched his cloak, then there's Mary's death place, and so and so and so on. All day I wondered what I was missing, that surely being raised Catholic or Orthodox or whatever must bring something more to this, more of a connection with relics or an appreciation for these things...otherwise I just reallllly don't get it. Jesus came to reverse the power structure here on earth, to challenge the allegiance people felt to the government, calling them to something higher, saying the first will be last and the last will be first, and now a couple thousand years later people are using everything associated with his life and sacrifice as pawns in a big game of power...uhh whaa??

My favorite was the Dome of the Rock on the Temple Mount, just because it was so beautiful. To me the Muslim architecture trumps the rest. Next, seeing one of the cisterns underneath the city was pretty cool. Tunnels and these cisterns run beneath all of Jerusalem, dating back to Herod! We also visited the Pools of Bethesda...basically ruins that go down into the ground. Near these was a church built by the Crusaders. Not so pretty, nor very holy to me considering the atrocities the Crusaders committed in the name of Jesus. I made a point to take a moment in this church to ask for a kind of collective forgiveness for atrocities past and present that Christians have and do still commit in the name of Jesus. As an individualistic society I think we often if not always disregard this aspect of community...I think an acknowledgement of collective sin and subsequently a distinct humility is required of us. Turns out, the Pope agrees :) 

We will try to get photos uploaded tomorrow night!


-M

We rode a camel.

Yesterday, we went to Jerusalem.  And like Makenzie said, it was just...weird.  We met our tour guide and first went to a look out spot where we could view the whole landscape of the Old City--the Temple Mount, the Garden of Gethsemane, and various other churches and etc.  At the look-out place, there was a camel.  I expressed to Makenzie I wanted to ride the camel, and well, she took me seriously.  It was an impulsive decision, but it was worth it.  The man hissed to command the camel to kneel down, and it hissed/growled in return.  I got on and Makenzie got on right behind me. I could not stop laughing while we trotted around the street.
We first went to the Garden of Gethsemane (for the Catholic Church).  That was my favourite part of the day, before we even got in the city.  A few of the trees were over 2,000 years old--giant knotted masses.  It was not the fact that that might have been where Jesus actually knelt that got me.  I guess that's the part of the story that I find most powerful--to remember how Jesus was in that vulnerable moment.
The rest however, was just a lot of sight-seeing, crowded around masses of people, kneeling to have their scarves and souvenirs blessed by a stone that Jesus' body was laid (but it's really only 100 years old), churches built by crusaders and people who were so desperate to have a part of Jesus' death and resurrection (and his mother).  I think we saw three different spots where Jesus could have possibly died.  All were claimed by different denominations.  Dumb.
At the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, there was damage from the 1967 war.  Over half of the church was destroyed and you could still see bullet holes in the walls.  


Today, we went to our volunteer placements.  We walked ALL the way up the hill to the HLT office (I wasn't prepared for it and therefore really angry about it).  I am actually working with the HLT office, so I got to stay where I was.  I will be doing some general administrative office work as well as some research for a report on East Jerusalem, and some PR work.  I'm pretty excited to see where it goes!


Another program member works there as well.  On our way to get an adapter, we ran into Majdi.  I introduced her and we had tea.  I will definitely be writing more about this kind man in the future.  He drove us to a cafe and we actually picked M up on the way!


Our first Arabic class was today.  Our teacher is an older woman and she's lovely.  Very passionate about the language and a great teacher.


Well it's Masah il heer for now!  (Good evening!)


-H

Our friend Majdi

So while me and Hannah were wandering this afternoon, I think it was shortly after she moaned, "What is the point of this??" We were greeted by a man, a shop-owner, on the street. We started talking to him, he asked what were doing in Bethlehem and as soon as we told him we were with Holy Land Trust, he got excited and named everyone who works there that we had just met hours before. He is good friends with the Executive Director Sami. He immediately said, "Come in, you will have tea with me in my shop!" He brings us in, pulls up two chairs and makes some tea. Some delicious sage tea that is the norm here, very sweet with fresh herbs. He speaks great English and has been to the states many times, even Texas! 


It turned out that he is like our dad in the Nazarene world...he knows everyone! He even has friends in countless countries around the world. He makes these friends, just the way we met him, by being so sincerely friendly. He immediately offered to take us around Bethlehem, to give us his number so we could call him if we needed anything. I know what you're thinking, but no, it wasn't shady at all. We could practically feel the sincerity oozing out of him like a warm breeze. He shared a story about when his Swedish friends were in town, and showed us a text they sent him today. He had framed and hanging a certificate from the U.N. something about him being a tour guide. When we told him our dad was very worried about us, he insisted we call him from his shop. Unfortunately dad didn't answer, if he had, Majdi would have been on the other end of the line assuring him that we were being taken care of! haha dad you missed out!


We talked for a while longer, and he showed us an article written in a college magazine about him. About a decade ago, he introduced himself to a professor and a group of students walking by, but his friendliness was not reciprocated. Later, this same professor was frantic because two of students were lost amidst a protest turned riot. He runs into Majdi, who remembers him by name and despite the professors rudeness, immediately assures him that his students are safe. He'd found them, taken them in and cared for them. The professor was convinced that Majdi was an angel, and only months later when he contacted him was he assured that he was in fact real. The professor commented on how amazing to meet an angel in the land where Christianity was born and Majdi reminded him that Muslims believe in angels too.


So Majdi closed up his shop and we jumped in his car ready for our tour. He took us inside the Church of the Nativity, swarming with tourists, but we didn't have to wait in a single line, because he knows everyone and a guard let us in the back way! Then we went to the Milk Grotto, the place where Mary and Joseph and baby Jesus hid on their way to Egypt fleeing King Herod's declaration to kill all children under the age of two. We snuck in past the lines here too, met a monk friend of Majdi's and saw his incredible talent to name the country of every tourist, followed by words in the respective languages...amazing!


Then he drove us home! So kind, even though we hardly knew where to go, he insisted. We eventually found it, and were promised a free mug from his shop next time we came by. He assured us that we should call him anytime if we need anything at all. And even after knowing him for such a short time, we both know that that's true. 




-Mak

First day out and about

We had orientation this morning at the Holy Land Trust office in Bethlehem on Manger Street at 10 am. We were planning on taking a taxi, Hanna (our "host dad" remember) was going to call one for us but then his son, or son-in-law (it's hard to keep everyone straight), offered to just drive us. It's only about a 5 minute drive.


There are about 20 participants, 4 boys, the rest girls. Just about everyone is college aged, with the majority seeming to be Hannah's age exactly, going into senior year. There is one middle-aged British man and then I found one other girl who is also 26. Two Canadians, a few who were born in a Middle Eastern country or their parents were, and a guy just out of high school also from the UK. Two mid-westerners, and every other American participating except me and Hannah is from the east coast. We've already had someone tell us, "I used to think all Texans were totally weird, but you guys are cool." haha


Our coordinator is Erin, who seems really cool. She first participated in this program in 2008 and later returned to do her doctorate work in conflict resolution. She is from Boston but lives in Dublin, Ireland. Her Bostonian accent is neat.


Orientation was good, a brief overview. Then a practical bus tour of the area, all the places we'll need to know for getting around and meeting up. Next, lunch...yummy falafel, hummus, pita, the works.


The rest of the afternoon we just wandered around in a fairly large group of girls. We found Manger Square, where the Church of the Nativity is located. Eventually the group split, then split again until it was me, Hannah and two other girls. We just wandered, trying to get our bearings. The other two girls eventually went their own way, headed toward their home in Beit Jala. I wanted to continue wandering, despite Hannah's whining! She is pathetic. She wanted to head home, wanted to know which direction home was, was hot, her feet hurt, whatever, I ignored her. :) We won't figure anything out until we get good and lost!!


I don't know if I feel so comfortable here because it reminds me of Mada or just because I do. It's strange to instantly love a place. Especially when my first reaction to Madagascar was to have an emotional break down. Part of me feels a connection to this place, like one of those deep down connections I feel must come from an outside source. However, maybe it's something else, either way I don't care...I just like it. It's also SO strange to be in a place I've read about and watched films about for so long. It's surreal!


And no, I in no way mean something spiritual when I say connection, or something Biblical when I say read about. This afternoon we returned to the Church of the Nativity with a new friend (story to follow) and actually went inside to see the place where Jesus was supposedly born and to me, it was just weird. I know, I know...think I'm crazy. But I'm sorry, there is just nothing special or spiritual to me about shoving through crowds of people all snapping pictures at a hole in the ground covered in gold plated objects and paintings and shiny things. As if any of that actually bears any resemblance to or is even symbolic of the humble and inconspicuous place that Jesus was born into. What is spiritual and special for me though is getting to build relationships with people who have sincerely devoted their lives to seeking peace in the land where Jesus walked, in the land where Jesus came to BRING peace. In the face of so much oppression, so many hardships, to meet people so warm and welcoming and rising above their situations, that is an experience with Jesus. 


Or I guess you could also boil it down to the fact that I am just simply not a tourist. Not a bone in my body. I personally hardly see the point in traveling if you don't get to slow down and really get to know the place, get to know the people who actually live here, get a taste for what daily life is like. And that's what we're doing and it's awesome.


-Mak

Here!

Hannah and I are here. owejfksdjfadlskjfakswyayayyyyy!! So excited! I'm writing now from our bedroom, in a house on Shepherd's Field Street in Beit Sahour, a town practically connected to Bethlehem in the West Bank, Palestine. Our host "parents" are Hanna and Nadjoor, a sweet retired couple that have 6 adult children. Two of their sons live here with us, Diddy (27) and Majd (22). Majd is taking finals at a local college and will graduate in June with an English major and a Business minor. Their four older siblings are each married and live close by. There are also at least 6 aunts and uncles, each have children who have children...big family so lots of people in and out all the time. Last night a bunch were over, it will be impossible to remember all the names! A few speak pretty good English, others none. Hanna speaks basic English, but Nadjoor very little. Everyone is so warm and welcoming, telling us how much we will enjoy our stay. The family is also diverse including a Chilean and a Spaniard. 

Nadjoor feeds us regularly, yummy homemade meals. So far we can't figure out when the family actually eats, we've been alone at the table every time. We wish we could communicate more with her so it's not like she's just waiting on us all the time, but we can't and she seems to be glad to do it anyways. I'm sure we'll soon get into a routine when we start work next week. 

The house is a nice size, including a front yard, back patio, rooftop, lime trees and a workshop out back where Hanna and one of his sons (who lives next door) make olive wood carvings to sell to souvenir shops. Our room is pretty spacious, two twin beds, two bedside tables, a vanity and a wardrobe (all empty), a coat rack, a fan and our own bathroom attached!

Close by is Shepherd's Field, as in the field where the angels appeared to the shepherds announcing the birth of Christ. There are actually two Shepherd's Fields, as both the Orthodox Christians and the Catholics each think they have the real one. We found out it's not enough to say Christian around here, as their is a bit of tension between Protestants and Catholics. The area of Beit Sahour is primarily Greek Orthodox. One of the son-in-laws told us that Beit Sahour is the best of the area (over Bethlehem and Beit Jala) and that God sent the angels here because the people are such gossips He knew the word about Jesus' birth would spread quickly!


-Mak

Introducing...

Hi, Makenzie here! Thanks so much for coming to check out what my sister Hannah and I are doing this summer. This site will eventually host our blog, which will chronicle our journey to the Middle East. But first...we have to get there!! So we have set this up to introduce ourselves and our trip in the hopes of acquiring your support.

This summer we are traveling to Palestine to volunteer with a program called Palestine Summer Encounter. We have been increasingly interested in this area for a few years now, the more we learn the more our hearts overflow with compassion for the Palestinian people. Since Hannah was facing a decision about what to do for the summer between her junior and senior years of college, and I was feeling restless, we decided to follow our hearts and serve a people faced with many hardships. We are both giving up work, Hannah a summer job, and me two months of full-time employment, but we just can't escape the pull to serve.


Finding the perfect program to volunteer with has been a great confirmation for us. While we want to give our time in tangible ways through working at a non-profit in the area, we also want to contribute in intangible ways, like building relationships that break down stereotypes and learning about another culture and religion to develop respect and understanding, things we believe build a foundation for peace.


The Palestine Summer Encounter Program allows us to do all of these things by living with a Palestinian family, volunteering at a local organization, and taking Arabic, as well as other seminars on local issues. 

The program's goals align with ours in every way:

• Strengthening relationships between Palestinians and the international community.
• Developing long-term advocates for the peoples of the Middle East.
• Humanizing Palestinians and Israelis, connecting our experience with theirs.
• Solidifying international support for Palestinians and Israelis working towards a just peace.
• Deepening internationals' understanding, appreciation and respect for the culture, language, history and religious beliefs of Palestinians.
• Educating and mobilizing broader constituencies in our home countries on issues related to Palestine and Israel.

So truly, we are first asking that you hit 'subscribe' right now and follow us on our journey. Secondly, we are humbly asking for financial support. We have been saving our money for months now, but we are still going to be considerably short. We feel so passionately about taking this trip, so we are doing whatever we can to raise funds, including requesting the support of friends and family, or maybe friends of friends, friends of family, whoever you are, we appreciate you even reading this far!

So...if you feel so inclined...please visit the DONATE tab at the top of the page!